All rights reserved. He stepped down in 2010 to assume the role of artistic director at Herms. , UNIQLO U Fall/Winter 2017 Mens Collection UNIQLO U makes a strong case for color with its new fall-winter 2017 collection. Au milieu des annes 1980, Christophe Lemaire monte un premier dfil avec Isabel Marant, fait le DJ aux Bains Douches, passe chez Mugler, Saint Laurent, ainsi que Klein[1]. We very much question this soft tyranny of the ultra-liberal world where you have to follow, and you don't question things, you need to run, faster and faster and faster, you have no more time, there are more and more distractions, and you lose yourself in that. Since 1998. Report an issue on the site to our moderators. His appointment to creative director of Hermes in December 2010 came on the heels of a 10-year run at Lacoste, where he introduced the brand to a sharp and fashionable new design sensibility. PARIS TRAVEL GUIDE: Fashion tips and trends Lemaire, founded by Christophe Lemaire in 1990, has undergone several iterations since its original inception almost 30 years ago. Or it can be, lest all this philosophizing sound chilly, more traditionally subversive, like the molded-leather bags, designed with the Chilean sculptor Carlos Penafiel, in the gracefully if protuberantly rounded shape of a womans dcolletage, nipples included. CL: A long time ago, I wanted to call it habits [clothes], and I loved this word because it also means habiter [to live, to reside]. The Luxury Designer Behind Uniqlo U Wants to Help You Chill Out | GQ We like progressive women, women who are themselves, with strong personalities and who are independent thinkers. All structured data from the file . Its an evolution of moods. How did that come about? This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged. The brand received the prestigious ANDAM fellowship twicean award dedicated to supporting emerging Paris-based designers won by the likes of Margiela, Bernhard Willhelm, and Y/Project. ", Suzy Menkes whom Lemaire clearly admires said his "gaucho/sloucho look did justice to the brands mantra as a house of true luxury." Lemaire and Tran walk the tightrope between marketing and creative with an acuity born of great consideration, uniting two aspects of a brand that are often at odds. But through Christian Lacroix I could see that you could come from another root and become a fashion designer, so it gave me confidence. A month before the selection jury was to meet to choose the winner, however, the Muse de l'lyse informed Sansour that Lacoste had changed its mind about including her work in the competition and asked the Museum to remove her as a nominee citing her work to be "too pro-Palestinian". "Suzy loves Herms scarves. In both geographic and stylistic extremes, Lemaire craftily expressed Herms signature design codes. He also rode Pride in the Grand Prix de Saint-Cloud, beating the favourite, Hurricane Run. Lacoste S.A. is a French company, founded in 1933 by tennis player Ren Lacoste, and entrepreneur Andr Gillier. [31][32], In 2020, the Australian Strategic Policy Institute accused at least 82 major brands, including Lacoste, of being connected to forced Uyghur labor in Xinjiang. Draped dresses, square-shouldered blazers, and distinctive knits joined their usual roster of trench coats, pantsuits, and structured separates. The main task the stylist received was to develop a new image of the company to attract new and younger buyers without losing old ones. Lemaire: The Brand Putting Low-Key Luxury on the Map, Design Duo Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh Tran Invite Us to Their Paris Atelier to Discuss Independence, Teamwork, and Their Exclusive SSENSE Capsule Collection, Alex Consani Is Allowed to Curse in This Interview. It was a recognition when Herms came to ask me to design for them, he said. I had this discussion recently, about the invasion of advertising, it contaminates and pollutes our way of thinking, our psychology, it creates so much confusion because you don't know what is reality and what is a lie, what is good and what is bad. [13] In September 2010, Christophe Lemaire stepped down and Felipe Oliveira Baptista succeeded him as the creative manager of Lacoste. "I suspected that about you," I said, laughing. he said, laughing, in what turned out to be one of the rare moments when his genteel reserve was lifted. CL: My biggest regret is to have named the brand by my name. Lemaire began racing in 1999, after he obtained the license required for a French jockey. ", Decode Lemaires fashion design inspirations and influences on the next page, Hes being modest. As much as what you decide to eat, read or do in your free time, the way you decide to dress is a cultural choice. And as all his collections had been a total success since 2002, Lacoste made a right choice. In the early 1950s, Bernard Lacoste teamed up with David Crystal, who at the time owned Izod, to produce Izod Lacoste clothing. You deliver six months of work and a vision and of course it doesnt belong to you anymore. Lemaire not only brings this vision to his namesake label but to UNIQLO as well. (Mr. Lemaire called the racing speed of contemporary fashion the disease of our time.) It can be the smaller, independent path less taken. . There is, perhaps, more to the Lemaire woman than has yet met the eye. This interview has been edited and condensed. Lemaire expanded Lacoste clothing line with new collection of yachting wear developed exclusively for the skipper Loick Peyron. Lemaire News, Collections, Fashion Shows, Fashion Week Reviews, and It has come to our attention that individuals have misrepresented themselves as working for The Fashionisto. The brand's financial success has attracted investment from Fast Retailing, which has deepened its relationship with the brand through a minority stake in the label in 2018. The museum emphasized that its decision to end the competition was in line with the organisation's 25 years of commitment to artistic freedom. Lemaire secured his first Japanese graded stakes victory, and first Japanese Grade 1 win, aboard Heart's Cry in the 2005 Arima Kinen. And personally it gave me confidence and I think by association, to Sarah-Linh too.. ", 3. Tran: I think people know why they come to us. Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran reference the 1974 film Alice in the , Uniqlo definitely makes a case for color this season. Strict. PARIS Christophe Lemaire, the whispery, whiskery designer of Lemaire, is an odd avatar of steel-spined grit. Before I chatted with the Herms designer last fall in Paris - after his third runway show with the house - I quickly Googled his name. Born on April 12, 1965, Lemaire is known for his minimalist style. He paused, then said: Dont try to be subversive. She doesnt hide the bad comments, but, luckily enough, we didnt have so many nasty reviews. [8] He remained with the brand for four years before stepping down to focus on his own label. Il se consacre l'volution et au renouvellement d'image de Lacoste[2],[3],[5], apportant une direction artistique globale au del du seul stylisme[6]. Il gre alors jusqu' quatorze collections par an entre sa marque et celles d'Uniqlo[6]. Christophe Lemaire est slectionn parmi plusieurs stylistes[2],[5] et finalement nomm la direction artistique de la marque de sportswear Lacoste en 2000 o il restera durant une dizaine d'annes[7], mme si les dbuts sont difficiles prcise-t-il[3]. Dernire modification le 27 novembre 2022, 21:44, https://fr.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Christophe_Lemaire_(styliste)&oldid=199035654. Jean-Paul Gaultier I find it very refreshing. [3], Lemaire was scheduled to resume riding in Japan in March 2015 after falling at Kyoto Racecourse in November 2014. Christophe was born in Besancon, France in 1965. Something ephemeral. So we presented at a location that is geographically close to us, Ecole Duperr [Duperr School of Applied Arts], that we have a partnership with for the masters class. Then the gaucho woman came into my mind and she went to Asia, Kazakhstanand Persia! The victory broke the winning streak of Triple Crown winner and eventual Horse of the Year Deep Impact. Have you always been naturally sensitive to this or has it developed because of Sarah-Linhs involvement? Teamwork and collaboration are held sacred, in stark contrast to the prevailing myth of the auteur designer, a notion that is reminiscent of Martin Margiela's insistence upon recognizing the collaborative nature of fashion production, in the 1980s. We have fought for many years and have occasionally gone through desperate moments; we have had highs and lows. Christophe Lemaire is a French fashion designer. Artistic director Christophe Lemaire brings his minimal design , Lemaire takes a page from the great works of Leo Tolstoy for its fall-winter 2018 collection. [1] Career In 2022, despite major wins at the Tenno Sho (Autumn) and the Arima Kinen, he lost his title. Aprs diverses expriences chez de grands noms franais de la mode, il fonde la marque portant son nom dans les annes 1990; celle-ci durera une dizaine d'annes. How does it feel from the inside? Christophe Lemaire - Men's Fashion, Style, Grooming, & Lifestyle Very beautiful, well-made clothes. They were a Russian and Persian influenced folkloric counterpoint to the opening outfits, which were based on manly gaucho styles from Argentina. Or is it a way to, you know, bring something different, something that makes sense? I love Charles Aznavour. In 2002 he also began racing in Japan Racing Association races using the 3-month short-term licence (, tanki menkyo) system, taking part mainly at local racecourses such as Chukyo Racecourse and Kokura Racecourse. Weve been together six years. In an interview, you once referred to this pressure as a disaster which I think is a really valid judgement. Our vision fits into something that people want. Christophe Lemaire - Wikipedia It is a great dynamic, so we do feel it; it is really encouraging and stimulating. We believe in things, we agree with things in the fashion system and we dont agree with some things, we just follow our own path.. For us, this is why the "designer-as-genius" mythology is a bit absurd, because if you don't have a good pattern maker, good assistant, good team and good capacity of communicating, it doesn't go anywhere. They know they wont find something spectacular or the new thing of the moment, so we are not under pressure to create something new constantly, or something that is in fashion at the moment, because people dont expect that from us. What do you do with the business? Christophe Lemaire - Fashion Designer - The Fashion Model Directory However, starting in 2000, with the hiring of a new fashion designer Christophe Lemaire, Lacoste began to take over control of its brand name and logo, reining in their branding arrangements. j'tais trs mal entour et je ne supportais plus le rythme, exprience profondment enrichissante, rsultats commerciaux trs satisfaisants. Finish this sentence: People think that Im, but Im "People think that I dont like fashion Ive read that but I love fashion. But were interested in the quality of everyday life. Lemaires aesthetic reflects the designers own unforced elegance. The shows started to be more crowded. Interested in Fashion Week? He has enjoyed much of his success on the Japanese flat racing circuit, with the most wins at Japan Racing Association racetracks for five consecutive years since 2017. Artistic director Christopher Lemaire reinvents , Following news of Christophe Lemaires appointment as Uniqlo artistic director, we finally get a look at the designers vision for the essential brand. Tran: Today I think women really want to dress for themselves. So far, it appears to be working: the companys revenue for 2015 is on track to reach a projected 7 million euros (more than twice as much as 2013) and last week it was announced that Lemaire would receive a minority-stake investment from Bipfrance, an investment company focused on growing smaller to medium-sized businesses. Christophe Lemaire Contact Info Role Designer Profile Work Clients People News Biography Nationality: France Longtime designer at Lacoste, in 2011 became the women's creative director at Hermes Updates all (65) All (65) Advertising (14) Editorial (7) Shows (32) Lookbook (9) Other (3) Only videos 1 2 3 . Then I asked him to tell me one thing about himself that few people except his girlfriend know. The sunlight hits some carefully considered pops of color: reddish brown, forest green, and a saturated azure blue. Files are available under licenses specified on their description page. The reason why we made this agreement with Bpifrance is because its a minority investment, they wont interfere in the strategy, they look over the numbers but they dont have any input on the whole operation or structure or collection. Tran: The development time for the first collection was very short. In the past youve talked about remaining independent, as youve had a complicated history with investors. Under artistic director Christophe Lemaires ingenious direction, his Paris team is transforming commonplace attire with creative materials and modern shapes to create , Artistic DirectorChristophe Lemairedesigned the fall-winter 2022 collection forUNIQLO Uas an exercise of constraint. Join our mailing list for the latest and biggest in fashion trends, beauty, culture and celebrity. Shes very attached to this part of the Herms DNA. He is someone who is more than a fashion designer, because he had all this amazing culture and a sensual approach to color and texture. Its difficult to explain why. The main task the stylist received was to develop a new image of the company to attract new and younger buyers without losing old ones. For a designer of his stature, Christophe Lemaire has a miraculously modest digital footprint. Next-level tequila plus a style-forward crowd equals one spectacular night to remember. Like his mythical muse, Lemaire is also an adventurer. If he were a colour, hed be "Green a greyish green. Contact 2019 sees the brand continue its collaboration with Uniqlo U, for examplea line of affordable, yet signature Lemaire silhouettes with a cult-followingas well as an anticipated denim capsule collection with SSENSE. Style.com said the collection "moved with serene confidence through a shadow land between mens- and womenswear. Tell me about your recent FW19 show, and how it came together. I learned a lot. From there, he has steadily built up a good track record, becoming the seventh leading jockey in 2003, and winning the French Group 1 Grand Prix de Paris in the same year. Love women's fashion? However, he was suspended by stewards of the Japan Racing Association (JRA) for 30 days after he used Twitter the night before he was scheduled to participate in races at Hanshin Racecourse. The brand unveils a preview of its spring 2018 collection that launches January 26, 2018. Christophe Lemaire - Designer Profile - Models.com - The faces of fashion Warby Parker. Its happening now.. "Brigitte Bardot, 1968. Christophe Lemaire might be menswear's foremost realist. "Its the day after when you think about everything; youre a bit anxious about how it is perceived. His fave fictional character "Des Esseintes, from rebours [by French author Joris-Karl Huysmans]. [15], In 2017, tennis player Novak Djokovic was named brand ambassador and "the new crocodile" (next to Rene Lacoste) for Lacoste. Its like individualism, its great that we have more individualism, it wasn't great when who you are was so much determined by society and family, and social codes. They are dedicated to supporting young, independent companies. But its ok to step back and to say no, and thats very much the way we think. By contrast, Uniqlo is the home of affordable basics, a rainbow of under-$100 cashmere sweaters stacked high in its megastores. Lemaire presented a new mens wear collection for Spring/Summer 2004 in 2003. I was looking at 70s images of the city, Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin. For instance, what we do is a business, and the new generation is probably more into this understanding, but what do you put behind the name of a business? It felt like all of these pieces leaving Herms, the Uniqlo collaboration, the investment fell into place for you over quite a short period of time. - Bollywood Gossip News, Indian Celebrities and Pictures", "Lacoste's New Crocodile: Felipe Oliveira Baptista", "Lacoste opens flagship store at Fashion Street", "Lacoste & Novak Djokovic Extend Their Partnership", "Home | LPGA | Ladies Professional Golf Association", "Step Up Your Style Game With Lacoste's New Minecraft Collection", "Dirty Laundry: Unravelling the corporate connections to toxic water pollution in China", "Suspension of the Lacoste Elyse Prize 2011", "Lacoste accused of attempting to censor 'too pro-Palestinian' art", "Lacoste Prize cancelled amid censorship row", "Lacoste denies censoring Palestinian artist in art prize row", https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Lacoste&oldid=1161219174, This page was last edited on 21 June 2023, at 10:32. CL: I think we live in a world thats in a late stage of capitalism where business is everywhere, in every single detail of our lives, and we are not even conscious of it because it has come so gradually. ST: And actually our creativity is also very inspired by the means we have, the capacity we have, and the constraints. In January, Mr. Lemaire changed the name of the label from Christophe Lemaire to Lemaire to acknowledge her contributions, and those of his small studio. In this work Sansour imagines the state contained within a single skyscraper, with each floor representing a replica of "lost cities" including Jerusalem, Ramallah and Sansour's own hometown of Bethlehem. While pursuing an arts degree he supported himself as an assistant stylist, which led to internships with Christian Lacroix, Yves Saint Laurent and Thierry Mugler. modifier - modifier le code - modifier Wikidata. [5] In October 2018, he rode Almond Eye to her victory at the Japan Fillies Triple Crown and won the championship for the second consecutive year, breaking Yutaka Take's long standing record for wins in a year in Japan (215 wins vs 212). "Never in my wildest dreams did I entertain the idea I would become a fashion designer", www.fashionelite.com | All Content 2023 Fashion Elite. Among people who wore the label are president Eisenhower, Jack Kennedy, Georges Pompidou and Audrey Hepburn. It seems kind of like putting on a play. Lemaire presented a new mens wear collection for Spring/Summer 2004 in 2003. Named artistic director, Lemaire contributes to the Uniqlo U range each season. But in the past three years much has been consolidated and there has been some recognition, which is exciting. And as all his collections had been a total success since 2002, Lacoste made a right choice. For other uses, see, "Number of Lacoste Group stores and outlets worldwide 2019, by region", "Lacoste president Thierry Guibert on the brand's growth and strategy for 2023", "Ren Lacoste, the Tale of the Alligator", "Switzerland's Maus Freres snaps up Lacoste", "Lacoste, the story of an iconic brand - LACOSTE", "Textilimperium: Bernard Lacoste ist tot", "Bernard Lacoste, Executive and Fashion Entrepreneur, Is Dead at 74", "LACOSTE signs Hayden Christensen | Masala! In an age when fashion has become seeped in logo-mania and fueled by the powerful yet impotent force of celebrity and influencer-driven trends, Lemaire is an exception to what sometimes feels like an inescapable rule. CL: Well I started working in fashion when I was very young, I met Christian Lacroix when he was at Jean Patou, in the 1980s. Yet last fall he stepped away from a marquee job as womens wear designer of the global powerhouse Herms to concentrate on his own, much smaller brand, Lemaire, which held its fall show on Wednesday, full of pale-rider tweed capes and high boots, off-the-shoulder tops and flaring skirts. ", 6. Why did you set out to do that? I had a fear that you had to be a certain way to be legitimate, and I learned from him that you can come with your own background. We wanted it to become a family name, he said. With an emphasis on color, those sporty tennis skirts, collegiate sweaters, and of course, piqued polos come in hues for anyones fancy. Lemaire: I always had this vision of what a womans wardrobe should be, but without a womans point of view. modifier - modifier le code - modifier Wikidata Christophe Lemaire , n le 12 avril 1965 [n 1] Besanon , est un styliste de prt--porter pour femme et homme. My own label is growing in an important way and I now really want and need to dedicate myself to it fully, he said in a statement at the time. He brought new blood into the company, having colored classically white sporty tennis skirts, collegiate sweaters, piqued polos, and brought Lacoste back onto fashion scene. One song he knows by heart "Im very bad with lyrics, but I would try to sing dodgy French music. Lemaire: Yes, we were happy with the result, but it was very short, so its great to have another chance. CL: We do not compromise with the quality of fabrics. Then, after Spring and Summer Collection 2002, he has been chosen creative director of Lacoste as Giles Rosiers successor. [27], In July 2011, Lacoste, along with other major fashion and sportswear brands including Nike, Adidas and Abercrombie & Fitch, was the subject of Dirty Laundry, a report by the environmental group Greenpeace. In 2014 he decided to return his full attention to his own line, this time co-designing with his partner Sarah Linh Tran. "For me its not about trying to impress or say Look what Ive done; see how smart I am. Its more about trying to be honest and right," he said. "What would surprise me?". Lemaire: Its all about seduction. Category:Clothing designed by Christophe Lemaire - Wikimedia Commons [6][7], In 2019, he retained his title in Japan for the third consecutive year, winning 5 G1 races as well as the Dubai Turf, the first international G1 win of Almond Eye. Il collabore avec Ramosport et Dorothe Bis. Media in category "Christophe Lemaire" The following 81 files are in this category, out of 81 total. Do you find that by approaching design as a team, youre able to generate ideas that might not have occurred to either of you on your own? Early 2022, in parallel to his racing career, he also co-founded the fashion label CL by C.. It was a few days after his show at Lcole nationale suprieure des Beaux-Arts, and the 47-year-old designer looked both relieved and exhausted. ST: Also because of the way its made, the factories that do denim have a very specific way of doing things that is very particular to denim. The company claims this as the first example of a brand name appearing on the outside of an article of clothing. There is something we like about Uniqlo in the generic dimension., Generic is not a selling point for every designer. [30], Lacoste's attempt to censor Sansour's work led to widespread international negative media reports on the company's actions and renewed discussions on the role of private sector companies in art sponsorships. Maybe I had a kind of complex relationship with fashion because I was interested in style and clothes, but I was definitely not excited by the fashion culture, I found it a bit superficial. They began to produce the revolutionary tennis shirt Lacoste had designed and worn on the tennis courts with the crocodile logo embroidered on the chest. But this is why Lemaire is super interesting because I think we kind of succeed to have a certain consistency, you know, we're not telling a completely new story every season, but at the same time of course you have to be evolving, and understanding the trends. Why did this new arrangement feel right this time? The brand received the prestigious ANDAM fellowship twicean award dedicated to supporting emerging Paris-based designers won by the likes of Margiela, Bernhard Willhelm, and Y/Project. Your source for the latest Lemaire news, updates, collections, fashion show reviews, photos, and videos from Vogue. Sansour had initially been included on a shortlist of eight nominees for the prestigious Lacoste lyse prize a competition which had been organised by the Muse de l'lyse in Lausanne, Switzerland, with Lacoste's sponsorship. This collection actually started with a very Parisian mood. ", 5. ", "I think her review was pretty good," said Lemaire. The finishing of the washes is very important. A DJ during his time off, Lemaire is often inspired by fashion from music scenes. The brand had just shown their FW19 collection at Paris fashion week, and through a doorway I see racks of clothes in their signature, neutral palettecharcoal, shades of olive, fawn, cream. I'm a huge fan of Alvar Aalto, his houses I've visited are beautiful because you have this functionality but you also have this sensuality, maybe even more than in the Le Corbusier, which for me is not a social architect. Its always the same: we are never satisfied. While the union was both profitable and popular, Izod Lacoste's parent company (Crystal Brands, Inc.) was saddled with debt from other business ventures. First he travelled from Moscow to Mongolia on the Trans-Siberian Railway, and then he set off for Shanghai, Beijing and finally Japan. Christophe Patrice Lemaire (Japanese: (Kurisutofu Rumeru), born 20 May 1979) is a French-born jockey. The range brings together effortless design with premium materials. Why did you establish a brand philosophy that avoided occasion dressing? Eli Russell Linnetzs Last Live Show Was a Stadium Tour. Your clothes are really about everyday wear. Lemaire: It came along naturally, because we both felt that it would be exciting to go on, for at least one season. I do Im very sensitive to what critics say and Im happy when I get good reviews but I dont court attention. Lemaire: That is a very good question, because it is difficult to resist outside pressures, particularly from the media. The printed pieces which were a mix of archival and newly developed designs closed the show. Even without Herms, whose new artistic director, Nadge Vanhee-Cybulski, shows her first collection on Monday, Mr. Lemaire still compels attention. PARIS TRAVEL GUIDE: Fashion tips and trends. Your collection for Uniqlo arrives in stores this week. Just before the grand depart, France's month-long August summer break, Christophe Lemaire, the designer of Herms womenswear, is on the rooftop of a multilevel garage in Paris. So for me its not the social media, its more the dominating values of excessive capitalism. Il est en internat au collge et lyce Pontoise puis obtient un bac littraire, passe en fac de droit et par hypokhgne[1]. market. In September 2009, he was chosen by the Aga Khan as first jockey. Fashion Designer France Paris Aries 12 April 1965 christophelemaire.com Christophe Lemaire Christophe Lemaire was born in Besancon, France in April 1965. Pour les articles homonymes, voir Christophe Lemaire et Lemaire. Paris. Its Prep-school-meets-Crayola on the runway. I think the beauty of life is about poetry. [citation needed] In 2005, almost 50 million Lacoste products were sold in over 110 countries. Christophe Lemaire (full name Christophe Patrice Lemaire, born 1979), French-born jockey; Charles LeMaire (1897-1985), American costume designer; Charles Lemaire (explorer), Belgian explorer of the Belgian Congo; Charles Antoine Lemaire (1800-1871), French botanist and botanical author; Because in our relationship to clothes, its not necessarily what you show to the outside world, but how you feel in the clothes which matters. [5] While it wasnt an entirely literal interpretation, there was no mistaking the gaucho references in the knit serapes, baggy leather pants tucked into boots and wide-brimmed hats. It doesn't get betterup to 70% off Sale. He adds just a. In January 2023, she left her position after a four-year tenure. Lacoste label was founded in 1930 by famous tennis player Rene Lacoste. [7] In November 2012, Lacoste was bought outright by Swiss family-held group Maus Frres.[8]. Christophe Lemaire on Building His Brand and Designing for Everyday Quality of Life, https://www.nytimes.com/2015/09/29/t-magazine/christophe-lemaire-interview-paris-fashion-week.html. [Laughs.]. CL: I think its important to dream but its important to understand reality. He doesnt broadcast bravery.